Jodphur is a big sprawling city. It is another town dominated by its fort but it is quite different to the one at Jaisalmer. There it spreads wide along the summit of the hill but here it resembles a European medieval fortress, impregnable and never conquered. Jodphur is known for its culture and fine arts including the revival of traditional and courtly art. A great display of these in a museum at the fort. We had a night at an institute for art connoisseurship including a meal and drinks in a courtyard under a spreading tree. We spent a day visiting surrounding villages with genuine arts cooperatives. Weavers using silk and cotton, potters, dyers, spinners and opium extractors, smoking demo and all! See my photos. It is wonderful the quality they can produce in such humble surroundings and from such simple raw natural materials with such ingenuity that demonstrates an intelligence not always recognised. The people running these communities are very environmentally sound and have even taken corporations to court. They won’t kill anything either, illustrated by the fact that when the artist removed a small insect from my purchase, he did so by blowing it gently...no squashing or swatting there. It has to be said that there are some very impoverished people living in dire conditions, there’s lots of rubbish on the roadsides ( not rotting....plastic and cardboard and rubble) and clothing minimal. These to be contrasted with beautiful historic facades of carved sandstone, richly coloured saris, posters advertising latest 4G mobile phones or beauty treatments, beautifully clean and neat school children and men in pure white outfits, modern cars etc. Fascinating at every turn.
Ranthambhore National Park and Tiger Sanctuary
This post should be full of pics of gorgeous tigers and tales of exciting tiger sightings after our early rise and Jeep safari today. However it was not to be. Not only did we not see any but the only things we did see were deer and some pretty birds. Turns out there are only two in this park of thousands of hectares and 67 in the whole area. Guide tried to jolly us along but when he announced he had found porcupine tracks, I got a fit of the giggles. We drove for 12 hours to get to this spot on very bumpy roads that are being “done up” which means our road and detours were temporary. Not good when you consider the potholed state of the existing one that needs the upgrade. The other disappointment today was that I didn’t go on the afternoon excursion as I needed the rest, trying to look after myself and not get sick. Turns out to have been a very good outing to a women’s craft cooperative where they make lots of things, have micro loans, run their own bank accounts etc. It’s the sort of thing I’d have been very interested in normally. At least I’m glad our group supported them with purchases. Oh well, you can’t win them all.
Jaisalmer highlights
Jaisalmer is bigger than Udaipur and it’s hard to say which I preferred as they are quite different and each has something unique. In the case of Jaisalmer it is lovely carved sandstone buildings &structures especially havelis in the old town, built by a rich merchant for himself and each of his five sons. The fort itself of course is an imposing sight virtually rising out of the dunes. Overlooking it at sunset until it lit up as did the little houses surrounding it was lovely. There were the expected gypsies dancing, singing, posing for photos and trying to sell things but not too many of them and at least they were doing something for whatever money they ended up with. There were boys flying kites from the flat rooftops and they flew hundreds of metres high. Most of the things we did were somehow related to the fort. It is a whole busy township of its own with residences, shops, cafes etc. Pretty commercial but why wouldn’t they cash in? Problem is the fort is sinking about 1cm a year and all the activity doesn’t help so we were discouraged from buying up there in the hope of making the little businesses unviable and therefore reduce the pressure. Bit of a double edged sword. Our tour has a focus on textiles, jewellery, embroidery, weaving and traditional handcrafts in general. We have watched demonstrations of tie dying gorgeous scarves (quite unlike the old hippie garments), visited women in their bare homes in untidy back lanes doing fine and meticulous embroidery on leather, silversmiths (yes I succumbed) and traditional Rajasthani patchwork artefacts on which the stitching was so fine it looked like paint. We went to the dunes about 50ks out of town and there were camels to ride but most of us opted for a “fancy” camel drawn cart. Listened to music and dancing while waiting for sunset. Then to a traditional show and dinner. Yes it was mostly for tourists but most of them were Indian tourists who were right into audience participation, knowing all the songs and dance moves, traditional and modern, oldies and littlies. The main act was Rajasthan’s own queen of the desert...Queen Harish. She was a drag act but only in so far as she did female dances and wore saris and all the trimmings. Hard to explain so if interested you could see her on you tube. We were lucky she was there as she performs in London, New York etc. Every day brings unexpected happenings in India!
To Deogargh
The highlight on this drive was the Jain temple at Ranakpur. Very intricately carved facade and interior. Quite a few Indian tourists there too. It was a spectacular drive over the Aravalli ranges through rural farmlands, with camels, rocky cliffs and ancient water wheels still being operated by water buffalo, at the moment with painted and decorated horns to mark Devali. Passing through little towns there were lots of sights including lots of colourful turbans and saris The idea was to go to Deogargh to break the journey to avoid a long trip all the way to Jaisalmer and it was just as well as several things held us up and we arrived 9pm when we expected to be there by late afternoon. To begin with it turned out to be further out of our way than tour leader expected. Then we detoured to a camel farm where they are doing some very good conservation work with the camels. However it turned out to be a waste of time as all but one of the camels were not there but had gone to Pushkar for some reason (not the Pushkar festival and sale.)
And even when we decided to support them by buying some camel soap and paper products they had very little stock available. Once back on the road again we struck road works on a road that already had a 30k speed limit. Night fell and we were on this road which was also narrow and windy and as happens at home, the trucks appeared and all traffic jostled for position. At one point a car had not pulled over far enough to pass or to allow us to pass but he kept waving us through. The driver could not drive properly; couldn’t pull over or reverse and there were long impatient queues forming in both directions. Drivers left their cars to help and it turned out they had to lean in and steer for the guy. He turned out to be drunk! Rumour has it that the Gujaratis come over to Rajasthan where they can drink, especially at Devali time. Anyway we got through and presume he continued and made it down the mountain one way or the other. Of course he too would have had to avoid the cows and camels on the dark road. We eventually got to our hotel many hours later. It was quirky and quaint having once been a haveli and still managed by the local royal family. Time to rest up for whatever would come our way on the next leg to Jaisalmer.
And even when we decided to support them by buying some camel soap and paper products they had very little stock available. Once back on the road again we struck road works on a road that already had a 30k speed limit. Night fell and we were on this road which was also narrow and windy and as happens at home, the trucks appeared and all traffic jostled for position. At one point a car had not pulled over far enough to pass or to allow us to pass but he kept waving us through. The driver could not drive properly; couldn’t pull over or reverse and there were long impatient queues forming in both directions. Drivers left their cars to help and it turned out they had to lean in and steer for the guy. He turned out to be drunk! Rumour has it that the Gujaratis come over to Rajasthan where they can drink, especially at Devali time. Anyway we got through and presume he continued and made it down the mountain one way or the other. Of course he too would have had to avoid the cows and camels on the dark road. We eventually got to our hotel many hours later. It was quirky and quaint having once been a haveli and still managed by the local royal family. Time to rest up for whatever would come our way on the next leg to Jaisalmer.
Catch up
Have not managed to write for some days due to late arrivals, unpredictable wi fi (although usually good),weariness after a day’s activities and problems with posting photos due to a new update I should never have done just before leaving home as they always change things. So I plan to keep the blog to text only unless I get it sorted and send photos via ICloud sharing. Apologies if you don’t have an I device.
Anyway, a bit of a recap here. In Udaipur, Devali celebrations were in full swing. Lots of fireworks and old fashioned bungers. Not organised event, just people letting them off at random and at all hours. When visiting a nearby village the kids ( same the world over) let one off surprisingly amongst our group and found the reactions hilarious. Marigolds are sold all over the place and worn as garlands or decorate doorways and shrines. Mandalas are chalked at house entrances and in villages, often accompanied by a display of grasses or flowers propped up in nice fresh dung! Cows and oxen have painted horns and dyed decorations on their skin. Traffic is indescribable, especially in the old town and narrow winding streets...tuk tuk-like auto rickshaws (autos) everywhere, including on both sides of the road, pedestrians seemingly taking their life in their hands by completely ignoring the incessant horns and wandering to the little open shopfronts with no footpath. All part of the fun and vibrancy. We went out looking at textiles, handcrafts and miniature painting demonstrations. The latter incredible, done with thin brushes made from camel eyelashes! I bought a quite expensive one which I hope will still look good in my home environment. It’s not miniature, the details are. Dinner overlooking a lake and lit up Palace was a highlight as was a boat cruise on the lake past big old palaces to an open air terrace bar at a palace built in 15th century.It was quite funny as after seeing our group’s physical ability at other sites, the guide decided we were not up to a visit to a fort as there was a lot of climbing involved with no alternate way to get up there. We didn’t care. There are more spectacular ones to come. A visit to a Bhil village was very interesting. Women and girls getting water from the well and carrying it in pots on their heads, glimpses into homes etc. very poor people of a minority ethnic group but very welcoming. We saw a traditional puppet and dance show which mercifully didn’t drag on like a Chinese opera..long enough to keep our interest on a warm night in an open courtyard. There was a 70 year old woman who danced with 10 pots balanced on her head, bending down, lying down, walking on crushed glass or plastic shards or whatever. The next day we set off for Deogargh to break the journey between Udaipur and Jaisalmer but that another story.
Anyway, a bit of a recap here. In Udaipur, Devali celebrations were in full swing. Lots of fireworks and old fashioned bungers. Not organised event, just people letting them off at random and at all hours. When visiting a nearby village the kids ( same the world over) let one off surprisingly amongst our group and found the reactions hilarious. Marigolds are sold all over the place and worn as garlands or decorate doorways and shrines. Mandalas are chalked at house entrances and in villages, often accompanied by a display of grasses or flowers propped up in nice fresh dung! Cows and oxen have painted horns and dyed decorations on their skin. Traffic is indescribable, especially in the old town and narrow winding streets...tuk tuk-like auto rickshaws (autos) everywhere, including on both sides of the road, pedestrians seemingly taking their life in their hands by completely ignoring the incessant horns and wandering to the little open shopfronts with no footpath. All part of the fun and vibrancy. We went out looking at textiles, handcrafts and miniature painting demonstrations. The latter incredible, done with thin brushes made from camel eyelashes! I bought a quite expensive one which I hope will still look good in my home environment. It’s not miniature, the details are. Dinner overlooking a lake and lit up Palace was a highlight as was a boat cruise on the lake past big old palaces to an open air terrace bar at a palace built in 15th century.It was quite funny as after seeing our group’s physical ability at other sites, the guide decided we were not up to a visit to a fort as there was a lot of climbing involved with no alternate way to get up there. We didn’t care. There are more spectacular ones to come. A visit to a Bhil village was very interesting. Women and girls getting water from the well and carrying it in pots on their heads, glimpses into homes etc. very poor people of a minority ethnic group but very welcoming. We saw a traditional puppet and dance show which mercifully didn’t drag on like a Chinese opera..long enough to keep our interest on a warm night in an open courtyard. There was a 70 year old woman who danced with 10 pots balanced on her head, bending down, lying down, walking on crushed glass or plastic shards or whatever. The next day we set off for Deogargh to break the journey between Udaipur and Jaisalmer but that another story.
The journey starts in earnest today.
Wednesday 18th October
Yesterday we arrived at 9.30pm after a flight to Singapore of 71/2 hours, a quick transfer and a 51/2 hour flight to Mumbai. Airport not too crowded at that hour but security and identity checks plentiful. After a pretty easy process we only had to go downstairs to an airport hotel which was comfy (albeit only for a few hours as we got up again at 3am for a 5am flight to Udaipur) from where I am posting today. We are here for four days and there will be no more demanding timetables.
Our hotel here is an old haveli; very atmospheric and with character. Interesting architecture and examples of some faded glory along with very attractive features. Keep expecting Judi Dench or Maggie Smith to walk in mistaking it for the Marigold. We had breakfast on arrival overlooking the pool and listening to a traditional musical instrument I couldn’t name but enjoyed. Some unpacking and a few zzzs and time to hit the town. Have only seen some of it on bus ride from airport. Scenes reminiscent of our trip to the Silk Road in China with road side stall holders trying to eke a living, watched over by the odd cow in the middle of the road.
Yesterday we arrived at 9.30pm after a flight to Singapore of 71/2 hours, a quick transfer and a 51/2 hour flight to Mumbai. Airport not too crowded at that hour but security and identity checks plentiful. After a pretty easy process we only had to go downstairs to an airport hotel which was comfy (albeit only for a few hours as we got up again at 3am for a 5am flight to Udaipur) from where I am posting today. We are here for four days and there will be no more demanding timetables.
Our hotel here is an old haveli; very atmospheric and with character. Interesting architecture and examples of some faded glory along with very attractive features. Keep expecting Judi Dench or Maggie Smith to walk in mistaking it for the Marigold. We had breakfast on arrival overlooking the pool and listening to a traditional musical instrument I couldn’t name but enjoyed. Some unpacking and a few zzzs and time to hit the town. Have only seen some of it on bus ride from airport. Scenes reminiscent of our trip to the Silk Road in China with road side stall holders trying to eke a living, watched over by the odd cow in the middle of the road.
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